After a previous season that was near on all black, Donna Karan perhaps played to stereotype by going for an exclusively lighter palate for this coming spring and summer.
With cream, oyster, oatmeal and caramel being the only colours in favour, the collection had a innocent and spiritual feeling reinforced by the upswept hair on the models, rolled up and away to reveal the nape of the neck. Indeed, the body was much on show with exposed backs, asymmetrical straps and bare legs with wedge sandals to accessorise.
Despite the bareness, some of the collection was unremarkable. Cropped trousers with a capped sleeved smock was never going to break any records but then after 25 years in the business, Karan could claim to know what women want to wear. Judging by this latest offering, it appears to be bias cut, satin slip dresses with fluted sleeves and pretty, lightly printed, silk dresses with easy sandals.
If there was any structure, it was on the crushed jackets that were embellished only with lady-like corsages. Other intriguing examples were a floral print suit and a crushed caramel trench coat.
It was not a quintessential Donna Karan collection but with a name as blunt as Raw Romance, this collection was something different for her customer. It remains to be seen if they will respond favourably.
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