Summer Spirit - Derek Lam

In comparison to his previous season’s city-western theme, Lam’s new offering was one of tailored casuality. It is perhaps not surprising that he chose to continue the simplicity that has taken root in the fashion industry of late, but then he does suit this type of collection. One that shows both his San Francisco origin and his twelve years at Michael Kors.

Opening the show, with tailored blue denim separates over strappy wedges showed that Lam has embraced a young and fresher mood. Indeed, the collection conveyed a feeling of summer lightness throughout. The models’ long, clean, moving hair and minimal make up reinforced this lightness. As did the restrained accessories. Slouchy suede bags in champagne and dark ochre, ivory cuffs and double belts worn over knee length full skirts were the chosen accompaniments.

Fabulous white trench coats, suede shorts with black jersey t-shirts and simple white blouses with neutral separates, showed that Lam wasn’t out to blind us with science. He did mix things up a little though. Fitted playsuits and maxi dresses in tribal prints punctuated the unadorned dresses and separates. There was one bright splash of colour. A mustard yellow, linen tunic over shorts added a shot of heat. Other highlights included a sensational long sleeved, white column dress that needed no accessories to detract from its beauty.

With an assembly of neutrals ensuring an expensive, uptown theme, the collection was, overall, a conservative one. Keeping the colours to black, white, grey and blue, Lam produced an almost capsule wardrobe for the stylish women of New York and returned a quietness and logic that has been missing in New York for some time. It remains to be seen whether this brilliant designer will keep to this straightforward formula or will venture into a more elaborate aesthetic.