Alexander Wang - Cocooning Returns

Perhaps he was having a go at so called 'luxury'.  But if he was, he succeeeded in making us all hanker for luxurious winter garments that would envelope and protect us again.  Not just the outside elements but from the attitudes that we meet on the street.

In a collection that was heavy on casual layering that could hide a multitude of sins, Wang chose to protect us with padded capes and boots - the latter, curiously, were peep toe - and jackets with reinforced elbow and shoulder joints.  It was cocooning at its most modern.  Lots of oversized garments including tailored sleeveless jackets - sadly a little unnecessarily shapeless - and wide structured ponchos.

Some of it was undeniably sporty in places and yet the clothes bucked the svelte 'show us your gym body' vibe with slinky silks and satins that skimmed the body but never clung. I couldn't help thinking that the collection would work for skinny women and larger women, but that anyone medium sized might seem a bit over laden with fabric and could therefore project 'nondescript'.  Adding to the bulk were mink collars, mink shoes and mink trimmed sunglasses. 

It was all very 'fashion accessory' in places but if you looked at the some of the more delightful messages, such as the ribbon hem tops and skirts towards the end and the fabulous colours of buttermilk, nudes and dove greys, you'd see that it was these details and the assymetrical pieces that were the standouts of the show.  So, whilst not a classic Wang ensemble, it nonetheless shows edgy continuity from a designer that is so lauded by the New York glitterati.

Prabal Gurang - Fallen Angels

Very 'winteresque' is how I would describe Prabal Gurang's collection for next autumn and winter.  This is perhaps not surprising, given that he was channelling Miss Havisham (see Charles Dickens for explanation!).
The term 'fallen angels' is not a term that I use frequently.  But juxtapositioning the silk chiffons, soft furs and hard leathers with pale make up and lank, almost grunge hair meant that the overall impression was of a woman who was very edgy but was that way accidentally and not by design.
Essentially a sweet, chocolate box girl during the day and a harlot by night, she looked young and innocent but she'd clearly been on a mission the night before and was dressed accordingly. Piecrust collars sat next to skinny, leather cummberband belts, while bondage tights rocked structured red dresses that appeared to have fallen off the body.  Lace shirts, gauntlet gloves, strappy lace up heels...it all evoked a theme of wantonness and of damage.

As the show wore on, she became more polished. She'd grown up a bit, had recovered somewhat and began experimenting with embellishment and cloth.  The emphasis was on the shoulder some of the time, but it was less severe and more fluid. 
Gurang's proportions were, once again, excellent and his mix of candy colours with bondage black was a real treat for the eyes.  Indeed the heavy use of deep pink duchess satin was quite refreshing.  In what appears to be a season of neutrals, the neon furs and colour clashes gives some very welcome punctuation.

Jason Wu - Feminine Androgyny

With an overall feeling of sharp, but demure, Jason Wu presented a collection that was neither predictable nor boring. 
Great tailoring - wools and crepes with lace used as inserts and in some cases, seam edging - gave the clothes that well known up-town New York vibe; while printed blouses and feather dresses heaped a huge feminine froth over preceedings.

In the main, it was lean and it was simple.  Although the models centre parted hair and horizontal eye make up attempted to widen your gaze, the silhouette was undeniably long.  Androgyny was cleverly applied by mannish jacquard suiting and narrow coats and jackets - some with Spanish style embroidery.  It was this embroidery, coupled with the skinny neck ties over frilly necked blouses that hinted at a senorita rather than a native New Yorker.  But then Wu was born in Taiwan.  Perhaps his internationality crept out a little more this season.

Nevertheless, there were some brilliant touches including double lapelled tuxedos, a monochrome palate of greys, blacks and creams, interspersed with flashes of Royal blue and crimson, and dotty tights worn with court shoes.  Altogether it was less hard and fast New York - more demure uptown girl with a masculine sensibility.