There are some vintage names that have a lot to live up to. Halston, being one of the greats from the sixties and seventies, is one such name. In its reincarnation by Tamara Mellon and Harvey Weinstein, it has been given the chance to show a twenty first century audience, the spirit of the late Roy Halston. But with Marios Schwab as Creative Director, this has not been an easy task. There seems little point in reviving a label, if you are not going to infuse the collection with the essence of the original genius. But this season, it seems that Schwab has done this.
Modern, floaty, tribal print dresses were followed by striking, Grecian sheaths in taupes and pastels. Some of the prints called to mind the colours of Monet’s Waterlilies and it was this referencing of the past, this peer into the archives, which found its influence in the bias cut satin slips, worn with retro style headbands. It was a nod to that strong woman of Studio 54 but it was current and fresh.
There was a brilliantly effective use of black jersey with gold leather and again, we saw an oriental inspired wrap jacket; a look very prevalent during this week in New York.
The vintage Halston drapery is thankfully coming through, though some of the tangerine jersey columns were a little complicated. However, it was a more than welcome change from his unreflective last season and one that he can justifiably be proud of.
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