Riot Of Colour - Marc Jacobs

As usual, the Marc Jacobs show was heavily anticipated. With this and his customary practice of starting the show at the scheduled time, he was ensured an attentive and enthusiastic reception. Both instances would have put the waiting audience in a good mood but what I like about Jacobs’ is his ability to not dress anything up to be more than it is. Stating that the “clothes are just clothes” does somewhat endear him to editors and journalists who are trying to decipher a coherent message for the consumer, without the sometimes fantastical protestations of the designer. Jacobs was aware of all the references to the 70’s and 40’s; but he just presented his ideas and left us to interpret them how we wanted to.

This show that had all the hallmarks of a Hawaii 5.0 episode, from the single exotic blooms used both as chokers and in the models hair to the two tone clutch bags, was never going to be quiet.
The Grace Coddington style hair was crimped and frizzy and parted to the side with flowers or diamante clips. Along with berry stained lips and midnight smoky eyes it gave a seductive Dorothy Lamour, 40’s feel to the outfits, that were predominantly of a disco groove.
Best examples of this were square framed sunglasses, high-waisted trousers, scarves tied over the head under large straw sunhats, satin shine hot pants, and golden glitter wedges.

It was Studio 54 glamour but with an uptown swing as the models marched on in clashing colours of crimson and rose pink. Vibrant 70’s geometric prints flowed over chocolate leather skirts and there was an interesting take on a suit. A high necked, saffron linen jacket, buttoned through and belted over a wide cropped trouser, expressed an independent mood that you could imagine during those heady days in uptown New York.

Most were not surprised that Jacobs bucked the trend for simplicity and piled on the excess with fervour. It takes bravery and a certain freedom of spirit to produce a collection so full of colour and contradictory to the times. But it was not a cerebral show. He was not trying to convey a serious, political message. He wanted to have fun. To him it was cathartic. To us, it was a blissful riot.