Thakoon has been hailed as one of the shining stars of the New York fashion industry. In his latest collection, he did not demonstrate this with a groundbreaking collection. He merely showed that he was confident enough to go his own way and to try something different. Something a little paradoxical.
A white double breasted trouser suit with narrow trousers was as covered up as it got as this collection of garments was ‘heavy on sheerness’, a contradiction in terms, surely. And there is no disputing that Thakoon is, like many designers this season, channelling an airy and light hearted vibe.
Faded blue floral prints on wispy dresses , full, gathered-at-the-hip mini’s, worn with bra tops and open satin shirts, nodded to a bohemian 90’s era and asymmetrical hemlines and necklines added to the if-you’ve-got-it-show-it mentality. But this wasn’t gratuitous flesh on show. Thakoon conveyed a nonchalant mood. This casualness, shown by the rolled up trousers and gauzy knitted separates, owes much to his downtown history.
There were glitzy elements too – sequin skirts and dresses and a snake-like printed t-shirt dress were stand out pieces. But it was the detail that distracted you from the cut or the fabric.
With oversized hooks and eyes acting as fastenings and occasionally doubling as embellishments, your eye is drawn to the cinching of fabric rather than to the bareness of surrounding skin. It makes for a very independent and individual look – not one for an older clientele, but one that a young customer wants and Thakoon has definitely provided it.
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