Monday, 8 November 2010

Will the longer length last?



Carolina Herrera

Good grief, I hope so. Just as we're getting used to the new proportions, it would be cruel to throw us into mini's again, no matter how good our legs are.
For some, of course, the longer length never completely went away. So, if you don't like your legs, but if you do like a bit of drama, and if you think you'd be sartorially happier living in Jane Austen's time or if you just feel the cold, then longer skirts are clearly for you.

And, luckily, they're not going anywhere for the time being either, because designers have been quick to continue the longer trend into next spring and summer. 
Marc Jacobs
Why? Well, it enables them to delve into various era's that are 'long centric'. The 1920's is one such era. Cue a whole load of flapper dresses in frosty colours with heavy beading? Not quite, but with this style, this naturally means that the waist is going to drop (more of this later), and we'll all be slicking our hair down, Gloria Swanson style.
I blame Miuccia Prada. She started this whole length craze and until she says otherwise, lengths are staying firmly under the knee. Take a look at her spring/summer collection for next year if you want a few pointers on the hairstyle; otherwise, think long and flowing for next year.

There's also going to be a 70's influence next year. That, potentially, will be a bigger trend than any flapper influence. It's not going to be quite as psychedellic as some 70's revivals - but you are going to see some lurid colours, floral prints and whimsical silhouettes; all with a slower, more relaxed demeanour. Think Hawaii 5.0. on Valium.

Chado Ralph Rucci - The best in America

Who is he and why should you know about him?  Put simply, he's one of the best couturiers in America.


I don't use the term 'couturier' lightly. Ever.  But Rucci has such an attention to detail, naturally paramount in all couturiers, and uses such high quality fabrics, that he is instantly raised to the workmanship level of Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera, by those who examine his work. 
Of course, he is currently championed by that flamboyant maverick, Andre Leon Talley, and this alone should give you an idea of just how well regarded he is by industry greats. But it is his clothes that, thankfully, speak for themselves.  I myself discovered him by watching Fashion TV one summer. 
Watching the Spring/Summer 2010 catwalk show from my holiday hotel room, a beautiful white jacket with circular cutaway detail caught my eye (left).  It was this incredible piece that prompted me to have a closer look at this understated but prolific designer.  I have been a fan of his ever since. You should be too. See his work at: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2011RTW-CHADO

Marc Cain - Image is Everything

The new Marc Cain collection for Spring Summer 2011 has an interesting feel to it; full of flattering separates and edgy silhouettes.  But before I tell you about that, can we just talk about the Marc Cain advertisment campaigns for a moment?




For some time now, I have been drawn to this German based fashion brand, simply because of these ad campaigns.  Showcasing their recent collections on one, two or three models with platinum, vertiginous hair on stark, angular backgrounds, (train carriages, windows), they achieved what I call an 'Arresting Image'.  Meaning, an image that stops you in your tracks as you glance through the magazine.  It's not often that you see one.  Let's face it, we're bombarded with images all the time, so anything that is a little out of the norm is very welcome.  How boring, and frankly condescending, are the usual shots of a girl, half dressed, legs splayed and pouting provocatively; often photographs doing away with the very product they are selling.

The Marc Cain images, in comparison, are glamorous and eye catching. They set the clothes in an interesting environment, with an intriguing lifestyle attached. They hold your attention. These 2008/2009 photographs were brilliantly executed (by Seregel) and the latest Marc Cain campaign is no different. I call it 'on the rocks'. Head to their website for a good look: http://www.marc-cain.com/.


Whilst their new campaign for spring summer 2011 does not have quite the same impact as the 2008 shots, it matters not.  The is one fashion house that benefits from and capitalises on its German managment team. Gut gemacht!