Love It, Hate It - The Cameo

LOVE IT!

Floral Pendant
TopShop

“Wave your hands in the air, like you don’t care”.  So sang Cameo in their 1986 hit, “Word Up”. Quite. Cameo’s, those old fashioned jewellery pieces of raised pictures in shell or stone, are having a moment.  This interests me for two reasons.  Firstly, what a great item to make a return.  All that beauty, nostalgia and, dare I say it, taste. Secondly, I am officially ahead of the curve, having bought a pair of cameo earrings on instinct about 6 months ago. In fashion speak, this doesn’t mean I am an early adopter; i.e. those that see a trend launch, jump on it post haste, lead the way and consequently demonstrate know-how to their fellow commuters.  It means that I am a trend setter!  Yes, a setter, (not to be confused with a red-setter, though with my colouring, I wouldn’t blame you for getting it mixed up).  But, now that Grazia has devoted an article to cameo inspired jewellery, we can safely say that the cameo is back on the menu.

Blushing Bride
Princess Victoria of Sweden

Although cameo’s can be seen as rather fussy and they certainly appear to fly in the face of this season’s pared down minimalism, they do sit incredibly well in uber trend vintage, a movement that’s still not showing signs of abating. Celebrities, especially those with canny stylists, first picked up on cameo jewellery last year, La Roux and Pixie Lott to name two and this June, Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden wore a stunning cameo tiara at her wedding.  The high street have taken notice and this season, TopShop, ASOS and Miss Selfridge are all showing trinkets in this lovely style.

Facing Forward
The Romilly

But it’s not just jewellery that has had the cameo make over.  Lulu Guinness’ Cameo Romilly bag, £195 from ASOS, is simply divine and is a smart option for smart ladies and if you’d rather wear cameo in a different way altogether, then opt for Next’s tan leather and cameo belt, a snip at £18.

Original Word - "Wintage"

This week's Original Word from Style Conscious is:

"Wintage" - the act of wearing last winter's old clothing.

As in - Q: "Is that new?" A: "No, I'm in wintage".

To Groom Or Not To Groom

What exactly does ‘grooming’ mean? That your hair doesn’t have split ends? That your nails are all the same length? That you’ve won awards at equestrian events? Who is seriously going to notice those first two? The answer to that last question is: everyone.
Years ago, I was working in an office when the HR Director came up to me and said, “You know Belinda, you always have nice jewellery but when I see you wearing rings, it always makes me sad because your nails are always different lengths. Why is that?” Courtesy prevents me from telling you what my answer was but it struck me then as it does now. The fact that she’d felt compelled to ask me was the main thing, but the fact that she had noticed them was, perhaps, more extraordinary. But then people notice different things. Especially women, about other women. I always look at bags. My mother looks at shoes. My best friend looks at jewellery. But those are mere accessories. You can buy new accessories to make you current and look shiny, in a Girls Aloud sort of way.

But when it comes to ‘grooming’, you’re talking about the entire package. And what a David-Beckham-on-a-three-storey-high-billboard package it is too.
There was a time when I did go for regular facials, massages and manicures. This was in my twenties when I didn’t have a mortgage of course. As a writer, I don’t have to be groomed. But a close friend works in sales. Now, there’s a profession where you have to be groomed. The stakes rise to acrylic nails and hair extensions. That’s serious maintenance. Everything takes a considerable amount of time to upkeep. Not to mention the financial outlay.


Why subscribe to it? Well, for one thing, it gives women time away from work (or children if you’re insane enough to have them). One beauty editor told me she sees it as “self preservation”. Trying not to immediately envision her encased in vinegar, pickled egg style, with a National Trust sign over her, I asked her if she really thought grooming made a difference. She flashed me a pointed look and said “well, perhaps not for everyone”.

Retreating to the safety of my friends, a quick vox-pop gave some surprising replies on the meaning of grooming. “It’s about being put together,” said one. Another came up with, “isn’t that about dandruff and laddered tights?” But my personal favourite was, “it’s what you do when you don’t have a life”. And therein lies the rub. You are questioned seriously if you don’t pledge yourself to grooming and chastised if you do.


I’d like to say grooming is a dying art, but that wouldn’t be true. Young women care very much about what they look like. But they don’t seem to bother about the details anymore. There are a new set of rules. Shoes down at heel are now acceptable. An uneven fake tan is not. This doesn’t wash with the older generation of course. If your heels are falling off then you’re sloppy, or worse still, poor. It’s an immediate indicator of your ability to take care of yourself because you instantly know if someone is groomed, don’t you? Britney Spears is not, Cat Deeley is. Newsreaders have to be. Radio DJ’s don’t; in fact, it appears to be career enhancing if they’re not. And me? Well, I’m just off to get a manicure.

Love It, Hate It - The Brooch

LOVE IT!

Brooches. Don’t you just love ‘em? No? Well, neither did I until now. It’s not that they’re having a renaissance, they’re not. But as this season is all about paring down and simplicity, brooches have a chance to catch the trend zeitgeist.

A few years ago, there was an explosion of corsages on the high street. Remember those? Every girl and woman worth their buttonholes were wearing a frilly chrysanthemum or a silk rose in full bloom. No-one was sure about them early on, (weren’t corsages a bit Edwardian? A bit The Age Of Innocence?), but when we saw how eye catching, how simple, how stylish they were...well, we all gave up the fight and adopted our bosom flora. They went stratospheric. Such is the power of an accessory trend. And now we have the chance to replicate the look, with a substantial dose of glamour I might add.

The issue is, the statement necklace is on its way out. This item has, over time, grown as big as the trend so that some examples are less of a ‘statement’, more an inaugural address. This is where the savvy brooch comes into its own. By their nature, brooches are singular and therefore convey subtlety. They say ‘understated’, ‘good taste’, ‘brave’ and if you want to get a bit deep about it, ‘cerebral’. You see, a brooch is the antithesis of an enormous pair of ear-stretching earrings or an armful of bangles. It sits on your shoulder, lapel, sleeve, collar, breast - in fact, wherever you want, the choice is yours and, done correctly, there’s less “I’m channelling Queen Mary”, more “I’m channelling Mary Portas”. What other piece of jewellery does that?

Butler & Wilson's Multiflower
£58.00

Naturally, as with all things, there’s a wide range of prices to match all this choice. There are some corkers out there.

At the top end of the scale is Tiffany with a Bird on a Rock in aquamarine, diamonds and 18k gold by Jean Schlumberger - £60,000.
Slightly easier on the overdraft is Butler & Wilson’s crystal multiflower with pearl drop and swarovski crystal at £58.00
And if you’ve only got spare change to deal with then how about Ebay’s jade, pearl and emerald paste brooch, a snip at £1.99.

Ah yes, Ebay. Recently, I’ve spent many happy hours on there, tracking down some art deco style brooches (vintage and new) to wear in the new season.
Reaction has been swift. “Where did you get that from?” demanded one friend. “That looks elegant”, cooed another. Well, yes, I know. They do indeed evoke a time more elegant, more restrained. There’s something about them really. They are a real piece of jewellery. And that, I hope, says an awful lot about the wearer.

In The Spotlight - River Island

I was there at the beginning of course. River Island’s launch I mean. I remember it so clearly. The stores all had laminate flooring with a bit of Aztec carpet thrown in and around the changing rooms. The music was jazz and other 1920s-1930’s grooves. The furnishings were old fashioned (vintage wasn’t a proper word back then) and it was very New England, very Ralph Lauren. They had mahogany framed mirrors and the lighting..well, it was low and distributed through gold plated lamps with frosted glass flower shades. Frankly, it looked like it was powered by gas.  The labels in the garments read “Charlotte Halton for River Island”, (was she really the designer?), and there were large branded paper bags at the cash till; not unlike Zara today.

And the clothes themselves? Much like Next, they were either formal and smart or casual and country; but with a strand of glamour running through them. There was nothing urban about them. An ivy green velvet wrap dress sat next to a beige pinstripe trouser suit with wide lapels and even wider legged trousers. This was teamed with a cream spriggy cotton shirt. At that time, for them, ‘Boho’ was huge; (this was waaay before Sienna ‘invented’ it). They were ahead of the curve and were channelling a new look on a high street that looked very different from its current manifestation.

You have to remember that Topshop wasn’t the giant it is today. In fact, its sister Miss Selfridge was the market leader back then. Producing items as diverse as a pink iris-print cotton sun dress, a tomato red short trapeze coat and platform strappy shoes (you’ve seen one pair, you’ve seen them all), they had the market sewn up. Topshop was for basics. Vests, leggings, tube skirts and yet more vests. River Island didn’t chase either market. Where Miss Selfridge was style personified, Next was work-wear (anything else there was terrifyingly bland), River Island was dressy and stylish. They teamed great design with superb fabrics and presented it in a coherent and engaging atmosphere. In short, they were different.
Since that fateful year, 1988, River Island has been through many incarnations, not all to my liking. They went chasing the edgy market, with some success of course. But it all got seriously bling. Their accessories, once ground breaking (they were amongst the first to buy and copy into the ‘it bag’), became emblazoned with a massive R and I. And as anyone knows, if you’re going to flex your brands, you want a designer name that you can be proud of or one that gives you kudos. River Island at this point, was neither.

But I am glad to say that River Island has turned a corner. The other day, I popped into my local branch when I spied, at the entrance, a pair of brown/black patterned tie-belted peg trousers in a light and soft fabric. They were undeniably stylish. Today, I went back to see if this was an apparition and I can reveal, my avid readers, that it was not. There was a trench coat with ruched shoulders, a waist length, soft, short sleeved knit, jersey maxi dresses with either plain or with a simple foil print, a functional green parker with faux sheepskin lined hood. River Island is once again embracing simple and credible style. To this end, I splurged (there is no other word for it) on a faux fur jacket, not unlike the one here (left). What possessed me to go inside this time? A very simple window display. Not as ornate as Zara of course, but River Island could do something similar I feel with spectacular results.
Is this the start of something new? Is River Island going to be my new stopping point on the highstreet? I think it might be. As for Charlotte Halton...I never did find out who she was.  Welcome back River Island.

Cecile Dress: £69.99
Ava Faux Fur Coat: £69.99

Muse Of The Moment

CAT DEELEY


Why?
She's the golden girl who hasn't lost track of her roots. A very British babe who necks cocktails like the rest of us.

What we love:
Ambitious and strong, she's a natural role model for the media generation. Wears everything well; she rocks mini dresses like a fresh faced teenager.

If we could change one thing:
Her distinctive mane of hair could do with an update but, overall, she's pretty darn perfect.

What's In Now...

At the risk of sounding like every other fashion editor right now, I do feel that you all need to know (be told) what you should be wearing in the next six months when the weather is colder. It’s shaping up to be a very dramatic season, sartorially speaking, which means it’s time to clear those wardrobes out and get rid of that cut-away swimsuit and any other summer nonsense. Statement necklaces? – old news, harem trousers? – give me a break, Star Trek shoulders? – do me a favour; it’s time for some decent clothes (read that how you want to). So here are some handy guidelines for you:

FUR - Potentially one of the biggest stories of the season. Some don’t think it’ll be that big. But it’s been a growing trend over the last few winters and I think it’ll be even bigger this season. Don’t think you have to wear the real thing. No-one has to these days as fake fur is so authentic. Yes, I do realise that’s a contradiction in terms, but bear with me. It’s warm, looks glamorous and says that you have balls. In fact, it sums me up in a fabric.
What should you go for? Well, like most trends, you have a choice. Short mink-like trapeze jackets, ¾ length shaggy coats, shearling aviator jackets, lambswool gillets and a whole host of accessories to bring out the inner yeti in you.
How should you wear it? Sparingly. Go for one item on the body at the time and, advised like a good bartender, don’t mix your fur.


CAPES – I’ve been doing these for years (she said smugly) and I can tell you, there’s no quicker way to add drama to your wardrobe. You’ll get stared at on the tube or train (buses are for the young, old and unfashionable) but that’s a good thing. Who wants to blend in? If you can’t do a cape, do a pashmina (yes, they do still exist) and wrap it around and fasten it with a brooch. Yes, I did say a brooch. Do I have to explain about those too? OK then. Later.
Capes are easy to use, go brilliantly over suits, for those of you that still have to wear the infernal things, and you can hide/protect/forget about your bag underneath them. Marvellous stuff.
What should you go for? Capes come in all lengths and some come with belts to really help you out. Keep it neutral; black, navy (flattering on the skin) or camel. Steer clear of red unless you want a wolf after you.
How should you wear it? With panache! Have all your items organised in your bag so you don’t flap about at doors or in shops, Batman style.

SIMPLICITY – Undoubtedly the biggest story of the season, though technically it started last season at Celine and head designer, Phoebe Philo, has continued the trend for this winter. Think quiet clothes, no embellishment. Frills, fringes and sequins are all out, (except at Valentino where they obviously couldn’t control themselves). Go for cut and quality fabric instead. This trend is all about clean lines and fit. You could say it’s subdued. But before you all start shouting ‘boring!’, let me tell you that it isn’t. It’s bliss. It’s the way clothes for women are meant to be. All that time wondering what goes with what will be a thing of the past. Your wardrobe will be so simple you’ll not worry about it for six months. This is a trend for sorted women, not dithering girls.
What should you go for? Muted colours and classic garments. Camel coats (though they will be everywhere), navy trousers, plain cashmere sweaters, leather skirts, silk t-shirts. Think soft fabrics, think sharp tailoring and remember that simplicity is the master. This season has it in droves.
How should you wear it? With strength and a bit of effort. When you’re simply dressed, people notice your clothes more. Keep your hair clean and tidy, your accessories to a minimum (that includes jewellery) and your shoes polished.

THE NEW BOOT CUT TROUSERS – “Woohooo! They’re back!” I hear you all shout. Yes, right. That’s all well and good but these are not the boot-cuts you remember from yesteryear. These are better (gasp). Why? These are high-waisted which means that they give you the appearance of legs the length of a supermodel (gasp again). I happen to be a convert to high waisted trousers for the simple reason that they are so comfortable. High waisted actually means they sit on the waist. Not under the bust (everyone thinks this) and not on or under the hip. What else is new about these? The hem. It’s a very slim boot cut. So, very tailored to the thigh (I said tailored, not tight), straight down from the knee, then a small flick at the bottom. So not a kick-flare in any guise, and not a typical prominent boot cut.
What should you go for? Good quality fabric, no bullet proof material please – these trousers have to flow. Secondly, make sure they are long. Choose your heel height and alter the trousers accordingly. There is nothing more leg shortening than trousers at the wrong height.
How should you wear it? With a simple top – tucked in. You will ruin the illusion if you have material swimming about your hips. Slinky satin blouses, fitted sweaters, tailored t-shirts. Keep any jacket you wear short too. There is no getting away from it though; this is a trouser that needs to be worn with a heel. Thank god kitten heels are back in, that’s all I can say.

THE NEW SKIRT LENGTH – Well, it had to happen at some point. We can’t go round in mini’s forever. Skirts are decidedly below the knee this season. I am a little worried. For a start, the average teenager will probably keel over at the thought of all that excess fabric on their thighs. Furthermore, we’ve all had mini’s on for so long, I think it’ll take divine intervention to change things, or as I call it, an Act Of Kate Moss. It’s an austere length for an austere time. Covered up and a little bit furtive. A bit like an investment banker who got us into this austere mess really.
What should you go for? You have three choices: a) The Midi. This is full skirted and either just below the knee or mid-calf; b) The Pencil. Needs no introduction but again, it’s on the knee and is as fitted as it ever was; or c) The Maxi. Floor length and either a straight column or on the bias. Your choice of fabric, from jersey to wool.
How should you wear it? Any longer length skirt dictates a simple, fitted top. The waist is particularly important for this trend. Get your belts out and tuck those tops and shirts in. This will automatically emphasise any curves but the length of the skirts will balance those out. It’s all about proportion. And apart from the Maxi, this is another trend that requires heels. Sorry about that.


Al photos: http://www.style.com/