Prabal Gurang - Fallen Angels

Very 'winteresque' is how I would describe Prabal Gurang's collection for next autumn and winter.  This is perhaps not surprising, given that he was channelling Miss Havisham (see Charles Dickens for explanation!).
The term 'fallen angels' is not a term that I use frequently.  But juxtapositioning the silk chiffons, soft furs and hard leathers with pale make up and lank, almost grunge hair meant that the overall impression was of a woman who was very edgy but was that way accidentally and not by design.
Essentially a sweet, chocolate box girl during the day and a harlot by night, she looked young and innocent but she'd clearly been on a mission the night before and was dressed accordingly. Piecrust collars sat next to skinny, leather cummberband belts, while bondage tights rocked structured red dresses that appeared to have fallen off the body.  Lace shirts, gauntlet gloves, strappy lace up heels...it all evoked a theme of wantonness and of damage.

As the show wore on, she became more polished. She'd grown up a bit, had recovered somewhat and began experimenting with embellishment and cloth.  The emphasis was on the shoulder some of the time, but it was less severe and more fluid. 
Gurang's proportions were, once again, excellent and his mix of candy colours with bondage black was a real treat for the eyes.  Indeed the heavy use of deep pink duchess satin was quite refreshing.  In what appears to be a season of neutrals, the neon furs and colour clashes gives some very welcome punctuation.