Great tailoring - wools and crepes with lace used as inserts and in some cases, seam edging - gave the clothes that well known up-town New York vibe; while printed blouses and feather dresses heaped a huge feminine froth over preceedings.
In the main, it was lean and it was simple. Although the models centre parted hair and horizontal eye make up attempted to widen your gaze, the silhouette was undeniably long. Androgyny was cleverly applied by mannish jacquard suiting and narrow coats and jackets - some with Spanish style embroidery. It was this embroidery, coupled with the skinny neck ties over frilly necked blouses that hinted at a senorita rather than a native New Yorker. But then Wu was born in Taiwan. Perhaps his internationality crept out a little more this season.
Nevertheless, there were some brilliant touches including double lapelled tuxedos, a monochrome palate of greys, blacks and creams, interspersed with flashes of Royal blue and crimson, and dotty tights worn with court shoes. Altogether it was less hard and fast New York - more demure uptown girl with a masculine sensibility.
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