Alexander Wang - Cocooning Returns

Perhaps he was having a go at so called 'luxury'.  But if he was, he succeeeded in making us all hanker for luxurious winter garments that would envelope and protect us again.  Not just the outside elements but from the attitudes that we meet on the street.

In a collection that was heavy on casual layering that could hide a multitude of sins, Wang chose to protect us with padded capes and boots - the latter, curiously, were peep toe - and jackets with reinforced elbow and shoulder joints.  It was cocooning at its most modern.  Lots of oversized garments including tailored sleeveless jackets - sadly a little unnecessarily shapeless - and wide structured ponchos.

Some of it was undeniably sporty in places and yet the clothes bucked the svelte 'show us your gym body' vibe with slinky silks and satins that skimmed the body but never clung. I couldn't help thinking that the collection would work for skinny women and larger women, but that anyone medium sized might seem a bit over laden with fabric and could therefore project 'nondescript'.  Adding to the bulk were mink collars, mink shoes and mink trimmed sunglasses. 

It was all very 'fashion accessory' in places but if you looked at the some of the more delightful messages, such as the ribbon hem tops and skirts towards the end and the fabulous colours of buttermilk, nudes and dove greys, you'd see that it was these details and the assymetrical pieces that were the standouts of the show.  So, whilst not a classic Wang ensemble, it nonetheless shows edgy continuity from a designer that is so lauded by the New York glitterati.

Prabal Gurang - Fallen Angels

Very 'winteresque' is how I would describe Prabal Gurang's collection for next autumn and winter.  This is perhaps not surprising, given that he was channelling Miss Havisham (see Charles Dickens for explanation!).
The term 'fallen angels' is not a term that I use frequently.  But juxtapositioning the silk chiffons, soft furs and hard leathers with pale make up and lank, almost grunge hair meant that the overall impression was of a woman who was very edgy but was that way accidentally and not by design.
Essentially a sweet, chocolate box girl during the day and a harlot by night, she looked young and innocent but she'd clearly been on a mission the night before and was dressed accordingly. Piecrust collars sat next to skinny, leather cummberband belts, while bondage tights rocked structured red dresses that appeared to have fallen off the body.  Lace shirts, gauntlet gloves, strappy lace up heels...it all evoked a theme of wantonness and of damage.

As the show wore on, she became more polished. She'd grown up a bit, had recovered somewhat and began experimenting with embellishment and cloth.  The emphasis was on the shoulder some of the time, but it was less severe and more fluid. 
Gurang's proportions were, once again, excellent and his mix of candy colours with bondage black was a real treat for the eyes.  Indeed the heavy use of deep pink duchess satin was quite refreshing.  In what appears to be a season of neutrals, the neon furs and colour clashes gives some very welcome punctuation.

Jason Wu - Feminine Androgyny

With an overall feeling of sharp, but demure, Jason Wu presented a collection that was neither predictable nor boring. 
Great tailoring - wools and crepes with lace used as inserts and in some cases, seam edging - gave the clothes that well known up-town New York vibe; while printed blouses and feather dresses heaped a huge feminine froth over preceedings.

In the main, it was lean and it was simple.  Although the models centre parted hair and horizontal eye make up attempted to widen your gaze, the silhouette was undeniably long.  Androgyny was cleverly applied by mannish jacquard suiting and narrow coats and jackets - some with Spanish style embroidery.  It was this embroidery, coupled with the skinny neck ties over frilly necked blouses that hinted at a senorita rather than a native New Yorker.  But then Wu was born in Taiwan.  Perhaps his internationality crept out a little more this season.

Nevertheless, there were some brilliant touches including double lapelled tuxedos, a monochrome palate of greys, blacks and creams, interspersed with flashes of Royal blue and crimson, and dotty tights worn with court shoes.  Altogether it was less hard and fast New York - more demure uptown girl with a masculine sensibility. 

Will lace last? That is the question.



Dolce & Gabbana


I keep being asked this question so I think it's worth putting a general reply out there. As a trend, 'Lace' won't only last, it'll get bigger. This is partly because lace is a summer fabric. But, perhaps more importantly, because there is a distinct move towards purity and serenity in the world, a result of the chaos of the economic climate. There is a yearning for a simpler and more peaceful time and lace reflects that 'past-times' yearning. As does vintage, heritage and old school luxe.
But this purity needs to be coupled with strength in these uncertain times. To this end, designers like Marni have produced leathers and other fabrics that are not quite lace but do convey both the femininity and womanly power that lace evokes.

Of course, there will be more than enough 'ole fashioned' feminine lace in the stores this coming season, so those of us that have never removed this craft from our psyche's, will be glad to see it remain on the agenda!

Style Clinic - trying something different



Ports 1961



New York is one of those places that 'charges' you.  Naturally, walking around in what seems like a film set, it is bound to startle, inspire, grip or amaze you in equal measure.  But it does seem that anything is possible, and indeed, anything is purchasable.  It is this freedom, coupled with a little effort, that can bring the most rewards to your image.

One immediate, but gratifying, trick to update your image is not to follow, blindly, the fashion reported on the catwalk, for these images are meant as a guide only.  The best thing to do is to try something different.  Something you wouldn't wear. Have never worn, even.  Something that your friends wouldn't see you in.  How often do clients say to me: "I always shop in... (name omitted to protect the retailer)... - I've shopped there forever!"?  At this point, I always ask why.  They always reply that they feel safe there, (as if, in another store, they'll be accosted or something), and that they like the brand.  But brands rarely change.  That's the whole point of them.  And if change is what you're after, you'll have to look elsewhere for it.
This coming season, it's time to have a re-think.  Time to choose things that are beyond your normal perimeter.  Time to walk onto that hot summer roof terrace with a new outlook.  Feeling worried?  Don't be - I'm right behind you.  Because I will be doing the same.

So, what will I be trying and buying this season?

Colour: Anything in purple or lilac.  Or a combination of purple and another bright.  Red is especially good, green is also head turning.  If purple makes your complexion go south, don't be defeated!  Wear the colour away from your face.  Try it in a skirt, bag or shoes.


Chloe

Pleats: Tricky but worth it.  Pleats on skirts can be a little provincial, but if you get it right, (i.e. team it with attitude, not a library book), you're going to show some serious fashion savvy.  However, if you really can't face the pleated skirt, then there is another way.  Pleating on the top half.  Best worn on lighter fabrics (silk, chiffon or cotton), pleats are good on sleeveless shells and feminine blouses.  One word of warning though - be careful if you have a fuller bust - pleats will only make you look bigger!

Length: Let's bring a little continental style to your wardrobe, shall we?  Think Ibiza beaches, San Tropez shopping trips and easy holiday evenings on Capri. Maxi skirts with simple vest tops and dresses in jersey, cotton or silk are the chic option this summer.  Also included in the 'long option' is the jumpsuit.  I bought a black silk jumpsuit last summer that I will be wearing this summer too.  But I shall add another this coming spring.  Something printed, flowing and feminine.  Don't over accessorise the jumpsuit though.  Unlike the maxi skirt or dress, which needs accompanying, the jumpsuit has a sharper voice that needs no companion.


Stella McCartney
SS 2010

Denim: Notably, a denim skirt.  Preferably button through and either knee length (no shorter) or midi.  The midi version you can wear with wedges.  Perfect for channelling the seventies vibe.  Keep the top simple.

Prints: My hot favourite.  I really want some vibrant prints this summer.  Normally, I would opt for a dress but actually, I think skirts are quirkier and, if you're wearing them for work, they can incredibly corporate, coupled with the right top.

What I won't be wearing:

Gym Pants: I don't show my pants in the gym; nor should you.  Consequently, I won't be wearing them on the streets of London either.

Skyscraper Heels: Please be sensible ladies and wear heels you can walk in.  I don't want to send any more ladies to the chiropodist...


White - head to toe: This look is a little tired now, (though admittedly, it still looks good sometimes), so it's very predictable and disappointing when you see it.

This coming season, I want you to embrace change. Mix it up a little - and be bold.  See you on the terrace..