The folksy, bordering on gypsy, theme manifest itself through drawstring waists and collars, off the shoulder ruffles and summer colours of turquoise, tangerine and cobalt blue. Mixed together with some prints in graphic blue and white, and some intriguing floral needlework, it made for a surprising departure from the hard leathers and soft furs from Fendi’s usual signature collections.
Summer is the season that enables designers to rework lasting favourites and white linen is, of course, a perennial favourite, but puffed and flounced sleeves? It was these shapes that seemed new for Fendi. Or perhaps Lagerfeld has just reinvented them this season after so much time away. The emphasis on the shoulder, that angle of strength and power over the last few seasons, has shifted, down the arm, to the sleeve and it was this, together with cocoon skirts, wide shift dresses and floaty georgettes, that made the collection very fluid and light. A chic, wide sleeved, shirt dress was particularly indicative of this sinuous theme and the return of many other looks: tulip wrap skirts, orange lipstick and cuffs and shoes in primary colours, nodded to another influence that we’re seeing a fair bit of: the seventies
Suffice to say that Fendi’s woman still has that alluring yet dominant edge, but it seems that this season, she has gone on holiday and relaxed a little.
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