Kate Middleton - The Myths Begin

The wait is over.  'Waity Katie' has bagged her prince.  Waity Katie? Is this too harsh?  Not really.  Would you wait for over eight years for your boyfriend to propose? Especially if he had dumped you at some point in the middle?  Well, you might do, if you were going to be made a Princess and in all probability, a Queen.  But it is not this that bothers me about the couples engagement.  It is the media's obsession with headlines, bylines and name tags that astounds me.
Several journalists have started dubbing Kate Middleton as a "fashion icon".  This is blatantly untrue. As is a number of other 'claims' in the media. Let's look at just a few of these...

Claim 1. "Kate is a fashion icon" - No, she's not.  We haven't all gone mad to wear what she has worn over the last 8 years. If she becomes a fashion or any other kind of icon, (a possibility over time), then that will be because we have bought into her style.  This hasn't happened as yet.  I suspect it will though. Business is business.

Claim 2. "Kate is the new People's Princess" - No, she's not.  That position, if it is one, has to be earned. She has done nothing to earn this so called acolade. She is middle class, so not aristocracy like Lady Diana Spencer.  Kate found work through a friend of the family, as did Diana, and now Kate 'works' for her own family firm.  This is nothing like the experience of job hunting for the majority of the 'people' in the UK. Most of whom have had to go through copious amounts of letter and CV/Resume writing and a rigorous interview process, before holding down the said job for years.  And all this without the cushion of a wealthy family behind them. But this is not the reason why Diana was called the People's Princess. It was because of her affinity with the public and her spearheading certain causes that were overlooked by the rest of the Royal Family.
But Kate doesn't champion the needy - purely because she hasn't had to and has never been asked to. Let's see what causes she chooses to support first, before we give her a populist title.
 
Claim 3. "Kate has had the same pressure from the tabloids and paparazzi as Lady Diana Spencer had" - Not quite. Kate has had it for longer. Diana had it for 6 months.  But Kate had help from the Buckingham Palace Press Office and a team of advisers. Not to mention her own personal bodyguard and legal team. Diana had none of this. She had no help or advice from anyone professional or official before she was engaged.

Claim 4. "Kate is just like Diana and is her natural successor" - Blatantly untrue. It is pointless to claim this and it's quite damaging to Kate.  There will never be another Diana. There were, however, some similarities  between them, that I spotted during the engagement interview.  Her choice of words for example, such as "daunting", were ones used by Diana on her engagement.  But this is to be expected perhaps. It IS daunting!

Clearly there will be more myths to dispel as the weeks and months go on. But from what I saw yesterday, a few questions were answered. Here was a woman who knew her own mind, who was not going to bow down for her prince, who was not happy that they split up a few years ago (THAT tells its own story), and had wondered if marriage had actually been in William's mind at all.  Consequently, with all the easy rhetoric used by the media, there is only one tag that does seem to be extraordinarily accurate.  Waity Katie indeed.

Carven - Architecturally Sound

Carmen de Tommaso was a French couturier who founded the house of Carven in 1945 at the age of 36.  Petite, at just over 5 feet tall, she continued to design until she was 84.  Last year, she celebrated her 100th birthday with a party, the invitation list reading as a 'who's who' of the fashion elite.

Dressing European royalty, Hollywood actresses and the chic inhabitants of Paris, her business grew steadily over the decades.  She excelled at making the diminutive look tall and elegant and brought an innovative thread to the French fashion scene. 

Her designs featured architectural prints, including some using trompe l'oeil, the art of making an image appear three dimensionally.  No doubt, these ideas came from Madame Carven's background of study in interior design and architecture. 

But it is this inventive streak and other Carven signatures, that have been recreated by the House's current creative director, Guillaume Henry.  Spring Summer 2011 is shaping up to be as statuesque as Madame Carven herself.

Will the longer length last?



Carolina Herrera

Good grief, I hope so. Just as we're getting used to the new proportions, it would be cruel to throw us into mini's again, no matter how good our legs are.
For some, of course, the longer length never completely went away. So, if you don't like your legs, but if you do like a bit of drama, and if you think you'd be sartorially happier living in Jane Austen's time or if you just feel the cold, then longer skirts are clearly for you.

And, luckily, they're not going anywhere for the time being either, because designers have been quick to continue the longer trend into next spring and summer. 

Marc Jacobs

Why? Well, it enables them to delve into various era's that are 'long centric'. The 1920's is one such era. Cue a whole load of flapper dresses in frosty colours with heavy beading? Not quite, but with this style, this naturally means that the waist is going to drop (more of this later), and we'll all be slicking our hair down, Gloria Swanson style.
I blame Miuccia Prada. She started this whole length craze and until she says otherwise, lengths are staying firmly under the knee. Take a look at her spring/summer collection for next year if you want a few pointers on the hairstyle; otherwise, think long and flowing for next year.

There's also going to be a 70's influence next year. That, potentially, will be a bigger trend than any flapper influence. It's not going to be quite as psychedellic as some 70's revivals - but you are going to see some lurid colours, floral prints and whimsical silhouettes; all with a slower, more relaxed demeanour. Think Hawaii 5.0. on Valium.

Chado Ralph Rucci - The best in America

Who is he and why should you know about him?  Put simply, he's one of the best couturiers in America.

I don't use the term 'couturier' lightly. Ever.  But Rucci has such an attention to detail, naturally paramount in all couturiers, and uses such high quality fabrics, that he is instantly raised to the workmanship level of Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera, by those who examine his work. 
Of course, he is currently championed by that flamboyant maverick, Andre Leon Talley, and this alone should give you an idea of just how well regarded he is by industry greats. But it is his clothes that, thankfully, speak for themselves.  I myself discovered him by watching Fashion TV one summer. 
Watching the Spring/Summer 2010 catwalk show from my holiday hotel room, a beautiful white jacket with circular cutaway detail caught my eye (left).  It was this incredible piece that prompted me to have a closer look at this understated but prolific designer.  I have been a fan of his ever since. You should be too. See his work at: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2011RTW-CHADO

Marc Cain - Image is Everything

The new Marc Cain collection for Spring Summer 2011 has an interesting feel to it; full of flattering separates and edgy silhouettes.  But before I tell you about that, can we just talk about the Marc Cain advertisment campaigns for a moment?




For some time now, I have been drawn to this German based fashion brand, simply because of these ad campaigns.  Showcasing their recent collections on one, two or three models with platinum, vertiginous hair on stark, angular backgrounds, (train carriages, windows), they achieved what I call an 'Arresting Image'.  Meaning, an image that stops you in your tracks as you glance through the magazine.  It's not often that you see one.  Let's face it, we're bombarded with images all the time, so anything that is a little out of the norm is very welcome.  How boring, and frankly condescending, are the usual shots of a girl, half dressed, legs splayed and pouting provocatively; often photographs doing away with the very product they are selling.

The Marc Cain images, in comparison, are glamorous and eye catching. They set the clothes in an interesting environment, with an intriguing lifestyle attached. They hold your attention. These 2008/2009 photographs were brilliantly executed (by Seregel) and the latest Marc Cain campaign is no different. I call it 'on the rocks'. Head to their website for a good look: http://www.marc-cain.com/.

Whilst their new campaign for spring summer 2011 does not have quite the same impact as the 2008 shots, it matters not.  The is one fashion house that benefits from and capitalises on its German managment team. Gut gemacht!

Rebranding A Classic - Viyella



Ottoman/Sequin Dress

Viyella, that quintessentially British brand, is on the way up.  There are some brands that are ripe for picking and Viyella is one of them.  Traditionally a middle-aged, safe haven for those that don't want a fuss, but do want quality, Viyella was, keeping with the ripe fruit analogy, about to fall from the tree of fashion. Indeed, it did actually fall; going into administration, then thankfully, it was rescued by another British heavyweight, Austin Reed.
Realising that growth, through change, is the fashion way, the Gods (in this case, the management team at Austin Reed), have decreed that Viyella takes its rightful place among the elders of Britsh fashion.

For the second season running, India Hicks, (she of 'bridesmaid to the Princess of Wales' fame), is their muse. She represents a fresh, sophisticated and intellectual customer. Someone who, perhaps, has not tried Viyella before. Who is this woman likely to be?  Firstly, she's an explorer.  Why else would you choose a brand that's been on the periphery of British fashion for years. She's also savvy, international and a forward thinker.
With 'heritage' a trend; not just because of its craft and handmade connotations, but because backward glancing, past life coverting and nostalgic era desiring is going to grow and grow; a direct consequence of the digital era.  Viyella are wisely tapping into this feeling. 


Wool Mix Car Coat

Still, the safari dresses, urban bohemian prints and smarter, sharper fabrics for next spring and summer, make for a glamorous, intelligent, yet modern collection.

Of course, there is still their faithful customer - one that is not always catered for in this youth centric industry.  Very sensibly, as it turns out, they have not discarded her, but are tempting her with bright tweed suits and colour blocking twin sets.
Reassuringly, the brand still looks to the British countryside for it's inspiration and this keeping to its 'heritage' roots, has served it well for decades. But it is clearly time for change.  This will take time of course. Time to eradicate the dated trouser shapes and the retro jersey prints and replace them with the contemporary shapes and luxury fabrics that today's mature customer demands.
Current season eye catchers are the cream wool car coat, black ottoman shift dress and pretty circle print scarf.  I do hope the brand does well.  It's always nerve racking to see fashion house evolution, but with maxi dresses and polka dot midi dresses to come, it does seem that this stalwart of the fashion industry is ringing the changes and is happily here to stay.    Find them at: http://www.viyella.co.uk/

What's New?

Being 'away' for a while, certainly cleanses the soul. After a bit of a break and a very welcome trip to New York, I am now back in the fashion saddle, as it were. There's lots to report on of course. This seasons latest wear, next seasons trends and pointers and interesting industry news are all up for grabs.
Where does one start?

Firstly, I couldn't resist. It had to be done. I couldn't walk away. We were made for each. We are 'at one' together. Of course, I am talking about Zara's checked cape (left). Naturelment. What else? This genius piece of clothing has been all over London with me. This cape, being one of my favourite pieces this season, was bound to catch my eye. Brilliantly crafted so that it sits tailored on the shoulder, with a simple fastening and deep arm holes, it is made of wool, which gives, despite the 'blowy' nature of a cape, a distinct warmth and protection from the elements. I will be wearing it even when it's totally out of fashion.

Secondly, today's trip to Fashion Press Week at the Saatchi Gallery in London put a smile on my face, no mean feat, considering the jet lag felt this morning... but it is talking to the representatives of the brands that I really enjoy.  For both styling my clients and writing for fashion, it's crucial that you get the chance to speak to the representatives to get an overview of the collections and direction they're going. So, these revelations are up next...