Will lace last? That is the question.



Dolce & Gabbana


I keep being asked this question so I think it's worth putting a general reply out there. As a trend, 'Lace' won't only last, it'll get bigger. This is partly because lace is a summer fabric. But, perhaps more importantly, because there is a distinct move towards purity and serenity in the world, a result of the chaos of the economic climate. There is a yearning for a simpler and more peaceful time and lace reflects that 'past-times' yearning. As does vintage, heritage and old school luxe.
But this purity needs to be coupled with strength in these uncertain times. To this end, designers like Marni have produced leathers and other fabrics that are not quite lace but do convey both the femininity and womanly power that lace evokes.

Of course, there will be more than enough 'ole fashioned' feminine lace in the stores this coming season, so those of us that have never removed this craft from our psyche's, will be glad to see it remain on the agenda!

Style Clinic - trying something different



Ports 1961



New York is one of those places that 'charges' you.  Naturally, walking around in what seems like a film set, it is bound to startle, inspire, grip or amaze you in equal measure.  But it does seem that anything is possible, and indeed, anything is purchasable.  It is this freedom, coupled with a little effort, that can bring the most rewards to your image.

One immediate, but gratifying, trick to update your image is not to follow, blindly, the fashion reported on the catwalk, for these images are meant as a guide only.  The best thing to do is to try something different.  Something you wouldn't wear. Have never worn, even.  Something that your friends wouldn't see you in.  How often do clients say to me: "I always shop in... (name omitted to protect the retailer)... - I've shopped there forever!"?  At this point, I always ask why.  They always reply that they feel safe there, (as if, in another store, they'll be accosted or something), and that they like the brand.  But brands rarely change.  That's the whole point of them.  And if change is what you're after, you'll have to look elsewhere for it.
This coming season, it's time to have a re-think.  Time to choose things that are beyond your normal perimeter.  Time to walk onto that hot summer roof terrace with a new outlook.  Feeling worried?  Don't be - I'm right behind you.  Because I will be doing the same.

So, what will I be trying and buying this season?

Colour: Anything in purple or lilac.  Or a combination of purple and another bright.  Red is especially good, green is also head turning.  If purple makes your complexion go south, don't be defeated!  Wear the colour away from your face.  Try it in a skirt, bag or shoes.


Chloe

Pleats: Tricky but worth it.  Pleats on skirts can be a little provincial, but if you get it right, (i.e. team it with attitude, not a library book), you're going to show some serious fashion savvy.  However, if you really can't face the pleated skirt, then there is another way.  Pleating on the top half.  Best worn on lighter fabrics (silk, chiffon or cotton), pleats are good on sleeveless shells and feminine blouses.  One word of warning though - be careful if you have a fuller bust - pleats will only make you look bigger!

Length: Let's bring a little continental style to your wardrobe, shall we?  Think Ibiza beaches, San Tropez shopping trips and easy holiday evenings on Capri. Maxi skirts with simple vest tops and dresses in jersey, cotton or silk are the chic option this summer.  Also included in the 'long option' is the jumpsuit.  I bought a black silk jumpsuit last summer that I will be wearing this summer too.  But I shall add another this coming spring.  Something printed, flowing and feminine.  Don't over accessorise the jumpsuit though.  Unlike the maxi skirt or dress, which needs accompanying, the jumpsuit has a sharper voice that needs no companion.


Stella McCartney
SS 2010

Denim: Notably, a denim skirt.  Preferably button through and either knee length (no shorter) or midi.  The midi version you can wear with wedges.  Perfect for channelling the seventies vibe.  Keep the top simple.

Prints: My hot favourite.  I really want some vibrant prints this summer.  Normally, I would opt for a dress but actually, I think skirts are quirkier and, if you're wearing them for work, they can incredibly corporate, coupled with the right top.

What I won't be wearing:

Gym Pants: I don't show my pants in the gym; nor should you.  Consequently, I won't be wearing them on the streets of London either.

Skyscraper Heels: Please be sensible ladies and wear heels you can walk in.  I don't want to send any more ladies to the chiropodist...


White - head to toe: This look is a little tired now, (though admittedly, it still looks good sometimes), so it's very predictable and disappointing when you see it.

This coming season, I want you to embrace change. Mix it up a little - and be bold.  See you on the terrace..

Marc Cain - Image is Everything

The new Marc Cain collection for Spring Summer 2011 has an interesting feel to it; full of flattering separates and edgy silhouettes.  But before I tell you about that, can we just talk about the Marc Cain advertisment campaigns for a moment?




For some time now, I have been drawn to this German based fashion brand, simply because of these ad campaigns.  Showcasing their recent collections on one, two or three models with platinum, vertiginous hair on stark, angular backgrounds, (train carriages, windows), they achieved what I call an 'Arresting Image'.  Meaning, an image that stops you in your tracks as you glance through the magazine.  It's not often that you see one.  Let's face it, we're bombarded with images all the time, so anything that is a little out of the norm is very welcome.  How boring, and frankly condescending, are the usual shots of a girl, half dressed, legs splayed and pouting provocatively; often photographs doing away with the very product they are selling.

The Marc Cain images, in comparison, are glamorous and eye catching. They set the clothes in an interesting environment, with an intriguing lifestyle attached. They hold your attention. These 2008/2009 photographs were brilliantly executed (by Seregel) and the latest Marc Cain campaign is no different. I call it 'on the rocks'. Head to their website for a good look: http://www.marc-cain.com/.

Whilst their new campaign for spring summer 2011 does not have quite the same impact as the 2008 shots, it matters not.  The is one fashion house that benefits from and capitalises on its German managment team. Gut gemacht!

Rebranding A Classic - Viyella



Ottoman/Sequin Dress

Viyella, that quintessentially British brand, is on the way up.  There are some brands that are ripe for picking and Viyella is one of them.  Traditionally a middle-aged, safe haven for those that don't want a fuss, but do want quality, Viyella was, keeping with the ripe fruit analogy, about to fall from the tree of fashion. Indeed, it did actually fall; going into administration, then thankfully, it was rescued by another British heavyweight, Austin Reed.
Realising that growth, through change, is the fashion way, the Gods (in this case, the management team at Austin Reed), have decreed that Viyella takes its rightful place among the elders of Britsh fashion.

For the second season running, India Hicks, (she of 'bridesmaid to the Princess of Wales' fame), is their muse. She represents a fresh, sophisticated and intellectual customer. Someone who, perhaps, has not tried Viyella before. Who is this woman likely to be?  Firstly, she's an explorer.  Why else would you choose a brand that's been on the periphery of British fashion for years. She's also savvy, international and a forward thinker.
With 'heritage' a trend; not just because of its craft and handmade connotations, but because backward glancing, past life coverting and nostalgic era desiring is going to grow and grow; a direct consequence of the digital era.  Viyella are wisely tapping into this feeling. 


Wool Mix Car Coat

Still, the safari dresses, urban bohemian prints and smarter, sharper fabrics for next spring and summer, make for a glamorous, intelligent, yet modern collection.

Of course, there is still their faithful customer - one that is not always catered for in this youth centric industry.  Very sensibly, as it turns out, they have not discarded her, but are tempting her with bright tweed suits and colour blocking twin sets.
Reassuringly, the brand still looks to the British countryside for it's inspiration and this keeping to its 'heritage' roots, has served it well for decades. But it is clearly time for change.  This will take time of course. Time to eradicate the dated trouser shapes and the retro jersey prints and replace them with the contemporary shapes and luxury fabrics that today's mature customer demands.
Current season eye catchers are the cream wool car coat, black ottoman shift dress and pretty circle print scarf.  I do hope the brand does well.  It's always nerve racking to see fashion house evolution, but with maxi dresses and polka dot midi dresses to come, it does seem that this stalwart of the fashion industry is ringing the changes and is happily here to stay.    Find them at: http://www.viyella.co.uk/